The intriguing tale of Begum Samru and her haveli
How did an impoverished fourteen-year-old girl in a brothel go on to reign over a wealthy Indian kingdom for more than five decades, during a phase when the mightiest of empires crumbled? It is a story that…
Naughara: A hidden gem in the alleys of Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s most bustling market place. But early on a Sunday morning, immediately after the lockdown, it seems deserted and quiet. Most shops are shut and an ugly knot of criss-crossing electric wires seem to…
Travel in the times of corona
I am flying anywhere after precisely fourteen months. And it feels awkward and unfamiliar to be carrying a negative RT-PCR report with the boarding pass. In the departure lounge, alternate seats have yellow stickers saying “Do not…
The making of the Mahatma
Lorraine, our guide for the morning, takes us through the cold rooms. We are at the Old Fort in Johannesburg, the site of the notorious prison where people who resisted the policy of apartheid used to be…
An uplifting ride to remember
It was dark when I woke up. It was 3 a.m. I had not packed woollens for my Australia trip. The temperatures in Darwin were warm, and so far Cairns had been quite alright in the evenings.…
The amazing Great Barrier Reef: Our first scuba diving experience
As a child, I would look forward to Sunday mornings when Jacques Costeau, the French oceanographer and explorer would present “The Secrets of the Sea” on Doordarshan. I would be glued to our newly acquired colour television,…
The quaint fishing village of Tai O
After our visit to see the Tian Tan Buddha and the Po Lin Monastery in Lantau Island in Hong Kong, we set off to visit the Tai O village. Buses are available in Ngong Ping and it…
The Legends of Macau’s A-Ma Temple and Tai Ut Rock
We were in Macau and casinos didn’t interest us. So off we went to explore the heritage and history of this former Portuguese colony. One of our first stops was the A-Ma temple. Built before 1488, A-Ma…
Who is Lady Buddha?
We were caught in a downpour in Hong Kong. We took shelter under the awning of a souvenir shop outside the Po Lin Monastery. As we waited for the rain to slow down I peered at the…
Discovering Hot Pot in Hong Kong
We had just reached Hong Kong from Macau by ferry. By the time we reached our apartment in the heart of Mongkok we were exhausted and were craving to have lunch. So we strolled out to the…
