The intriguing tale of Begum Samru and her haveli
How did an impoverished fourteen-year-old girl in a brothel go on to reign over a wealthy Indian kingdom for more than five decades, during a phase when the mightiest of empires crumbled? It is a story that…
Naughara: A hidden gem in the alleys of Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s most bustling market place. But early on a Sunday morning, immediately after the lockdown, it seems deserted and quiet. Most shops are shut and an ugly knot of criss-crossing electric wires seem to…
Meen Puyabaisse: The Pondicherry version of Bouillabaisse
I grew up in the French colony of Pondicherry which is located by the Bay of Bengal. One of the first things that grabs your attention when you reach Pondicherry is the French spelling. Our landlord was…
The Legends of Macau’s A-Ma Temple and Tai Ut Rock
We were in Macau and casinos didn’t interest us. So off we went to explore the heritage and history of this former Portuguese colony. One of our first stops was the A-Ma temple. Built before 1488, A-Ma…
The world mourns for Notre-Dame de Paris
Last night, not just Parisians, but people world over were distraught to see the Notre-Dame aflame. Fire engulfed the structure and horrified onlookers gasped as they saw the iconic Gothic spire collapse. The world mourned as fire…
The Tree of Life insignia and Sidi Saeed Mosque
On my first trip to Ahmedabad, I was at the Indian Institute of Management (IIM-A) for my niece’s convocation ceremony. IIM-A’s logo is the Tree of Life insignia. The insignia is derived from the intricate stone-carved window…
Rani ni Vav: The queen among stepwells
Have you had a chance to look at the new lavender-coloured hundred rupee note? Turn it to the reverse side and you will see a motif of Rani ki vav. Rani ki vav (or Rani ni vav…
Gandhi and leprosy
When he lived in Sevagram, Mahatma Gandhi used to take long walks. One cold winter day in December 1939, as he stepped out of the ashram, he encountered a man who was carrying a bundle in his…
The dazzling Sun temple at Modhera
I couldn’t have chosen a more significant day to visit the Sun temple in Modhera. I was there on the auspicious day of Makar Sankranti. The temple’s intricate architecture dazzled my eyes, as much as the sun…
