The intriguing tale of Begum Samru and her haveli
How did an impoverished fourteen-year-old girl in a brothel go on to reign over a wealthy Indian kingdom for more than five decades, during a phase when the mightiest of empires crumbled? It is a story that…
Naughara: A hidden gem in the alleys of Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s most bustling market place. But early on a Sunday morning, immediately after the lockdown, it seems deserted and quiet. Most shops are shut and an ugly knot of criss-crossing electric wires seem to…
Sujani: Embroidery from Bihar
One of the many diverse art forms that lie relatively undiscovered in Bihar is the Sujini or Sujani embroidery. The earliest known examples of Sujani embroidery date back to the mid 1920s. Women hand embroidered these masterpieces…
Khenda: The saree quilt
The house has become quieter. The mourning rituals ended last evening. Most visitors have left. Even people of the house are beginning to travel. Work beckons. Subodh and one of my nieces together come to me. “Do…
The serene Po Lin Monastery in Hong Kong
We first caught sight of the Po Lin Monastery between the misty clouds from the Ngong Ping cable car. And then again we spotted it from the top of the peak when we climbed up to see…
Soof and Khaarek: Ways to select a bride?
“I hadn’t seen my wife before my wedding”, says Mukeshbhai. “But I was sent several samples of embroidery made by her. That told me so much about her.” We are at Kala Raksha in Sumrasar Sheikh village,…
Maata ni Pachhedi: Celebrating the Mother Goddess
Somewhere among the pages of a thirty year-old diary, which I maintained as a schoolgirl, I still have “Maata ni Pachhedi” scrawled. The diary had questions from Quiz Time and India Quiz, and everytime Siddhartha Basu asked…
Rani ni Vav: The queen among stepwells
Have you had a chance to look at the new lavender-coloured hundred rupee note? Turn it to the reverse side and you will see a motif of Rani ki vav. Rani ki vav (or Rani ni vav…
The revival of Ajrakh
I have always been fond of the Indigo range sold by Fab India and own several of their block-printed kurtas and some sarees. The patterns and aesthetics of Ajrakh have always appealed to me. But I knew…
