Barefoot at Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
The first thing I felt at Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir was not devotion, but cold. It had snowed there a few days earlier, and ice was melting slowly all around. We left our shoes at the designated…
Chhath: A prayer for society and a quiet act of resistance
Each year, as dawn breaks over the ghats of Bihar and eastern India, the riverbanks shimmer with the golden light of the rising sun, mirrored by thousands of diyas floating on the water’s surface. Men and women,…
My Saree Stories: Part 21 (Paintings of India)
In my previous editions of my saree stories, I have written about the different embroideries from the different states of India which have been showcased on sarees. In this edition, I will share my forays into translating…
Savouring Tamilnadu’s healthy claypot cooking
I am a firm believer in exploring new cuisines and learning more about the flavours of the places I visit. I happened to be in Thanjavur in Tamilnadu, where we, a gang of girls who studied together…
My Saree Stories: Part 20 (Embroideries of India)
India is home to several stunning forms of embroidery. Here is my humble attempt at recording some of the popular embroideries which are featured on sarees. These come from several states of India, and there are distinct…
My Saree Stories: Part 19 (Ikats of India)
The term ikat comes from the Malay word ‘mengikat’ which means to tie or bind. When it comes to the ikat technique, it is difficult to say where it originated. The art of resist dyeing the threads…
The intriguing tale of Begum Samru and her haveli
How did an impoverished fourteen-year-old girl in a brothel go on to reign over a wealthy Indian kingdom for more than five decades, during a phase when the mightiest of empires crumbled? It is a story that…
Naughara: A hidden gem in the alleys of Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s most bustling market place. But early on a Sunday morning, immediately after the lockdown, it seems deserted and quiet. Most shops are shut and an ugly knot of criss-crossing electric wires seem to…
Meen Puyabaisse: The Pondicherry version of Bouillabaisse
I grew up in the French colony of Pondicherry which is located by the Bay of Bengal. One of the first things that grabs your attention when you reach Pondicherry is the French spelling. Our landlord was…
Agast ke phool ke bajke: Festival-special fritters
Fritters (bajke) made out of Agast flowers are commonly made around Chhat in Bihar, and usually on Bhai Dooj day. On these festival days, due to the huge demand, these flowers sell for anywhere between Rs 800…
